Day 3 and 4 Italy: The Music of Venice

November 23

Flooded Piazza
San Marco

After a beautiful day yesterday it turned rainy and cold. We woke up to flooding all along the Riva degli Schiavoni and the Piazza San Marco. After breakfast we ventured out to pick up a piece of jewelry Larry got me for our anniversary, that was being sized and then looked for a spot for lunch.

The "Spritz"  Aperol, Prosecco and Sparking Aqua
The “Spritz”
Aperol, Prosecco and Sparking Aqua
Simple Pizza con Piccante Salumi
Pizza con Piccante Salumi

Enrica suggested we try Acqua Pazza, while we were here. A Spritz and pizza was a nice antidote to the damp dreariness outside. Afterwards we just decided to head back to the hotel and check on life back in NY.  Larry, a diehard hockey fan, checked the Rangers Report blog on; and I did a little writing.

Spaghetti with Clams
Spaghetti with Clams at Oniga

In the evening we headed out for dinner to a little osteria in the Dorsoduro called  Ristoteca Oniga. Initially we walked in and were turned away because we did not have a reservation. The same happened to a French couple standing right behind us in the doorway. But then the owner suggested the four of us share a table, if we wanted. Brilliant! Why not? The food was simple and delicious. Given the kind of day we were having we both opted for a nice bowl of pasta and it hit the spot, along with a mezzo litro of valpolicella wine.

Scuola de Carmini
Scuola de Carmini

After dinner we headed to the Scuola Grande dei Carmini, in a beautiful church to see a performance called Musica in Maschera (Music in Masks).



The musicians wore 17th century costumes complete with puffy wigs and masks.  Along with the musicians were a soprano, tenor and a ballerina. It sounds a little cheesy, but the music, songs and dance were quite good. A dozen different pieces including some famous arias by Puccini, Verdi and Mozart. It was quite lovely and a nice way to end a rainy dreary day.

November 24

Basilica at San Marco

The rained cleared away overnight and we woke up to a sunny crisp morning. Thinking it was going to be a slow Sunday with not much open, we were surprised to see so much hustle and bustle. After a nice breakfast we decided to see another performance that evening at the Teatro la Fenice. Then we headed out and in the direction of the Rialto. On the lookout for something “Italian” for Elinor and Murano glass for us.

Sunday at the Fish Market
Sunday at the Fish Market
Rialto Fish Market
Rialto Fish Market normal hours!

Wandering for a few hours we finally ended up back in the Rialto Mercato but literally nothing was open. It was a strange sight to see it look so desolate given the lively intensity we experienced with Enrica.

Ljubljana International Orchestra
Ljubljana International
Beautiful theatre!

Heading back to the hotel, with success on our shopping excursion, a quick change and off to the theatre. The concert was just wonderful and the theatre simply beautiful. The music of Elgar, Tchaikovsky, Verdi and Berlioz.

After the performance we headed to Bistrot de Venise for a post theatre dinner. After getting a little lost, we finally found it and had a spectacular meal. Each dish was stunning with the the taste to match.

Pumpkin Gnocchi and Lamb Ragu

We decided that the highlight of that dinner, a hard decision to make, was the Pumpkin Gnocchi with Lamb Ragu. Simply divine.

House-smoked Bacala with Horseradish-Pom Sauce and Artichoke Salad
House-smoked Bacala
with Horseradish-Pom Sauce and
Artichoke Salad

My House-smoked Bacala with Horseradish-Pomagranate Sauce and Artichoke Salad a very close runner up. Thankfully we were just on the other side of the Piazza San Marco, and a quick walk home.

The piazza was pretty quiet as we crossed through just a minute before midnight, and then we were greeted with a a cacophony of  sound as the bells chimed from both the Campanile and the Torre dell’Orologio.  It was quite wonderful.


One Comment Add yours

  1. What a smart trade you made. Nothing like following your passion in life. You both are inspirations to us all. Should you be in town, we are having a birthday bash for my 95th on. Jan. 8th in LaMesa. Would be great to hug you– Kalisa would die of happiness.


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